A delayed 2 hour Ryannair flight landed us in Gdansk at midnight. Followed by a long bus ride and finally a cab we arrived at our B&B at 2.00am. There was little accommodation in Gdansk when we booked and we found ourselves in an apartment building that looked like it was in the Eastern Bloc in the 1950’s. Luckily we were just a short walk to the city.
We discovered the St Dominics Fair was on which brings 7 million visitors to the city over a period of 3 weeks and we were there in the middle of it. This made for crowded streets and everything busy but it also made an amazing atmosphere.
Gdańsk is a port city on the Baltic coast of Poland and the heart of the world Amber trade. Napoleon said “Gdansk is the key to everything”. It is the birthplace of Daniel Fahrenheit and Gunter Grass, the 1999 Nobel Prizewinner in Literature. At the centre of its Main Town are the colourful facades of Long Market, which were reconstructed after the bombing of WW2. Due to the size of the port on the Baltic Sea, Hitler intended it to become a Nazi stronghold and the first battlefields of WW2 were Westerplatte and the Polish Post Office in Gdansk. It was also here that the strike by the shipyard workers led by Lech Wałęsa heralded the beginning of the end of communism in this part of Europe. So the city we see today is definitely worth a visit. It doesn’t take a long walk, however, to find yourself in an area that still looks like it could be post war. We had 3 nights and 2 days planned but we could have spent more time here to take in more of the historic sites.
Malbork
Just a short 1 hour train ride took us to Malbork. The town was built in Prussia in 1274 on the east bank of the river Nogat by the Teutonic Knights and it became the seat of the Teutonic Order and Europe’s largest Gothic fortress. Under continuous construction for nearly 230 years, the castle complex is actually three castles combined in one and is the world’s largest brick castle. The castle was in the process of being restored by the Germans when WW2 broke out. During the war, the castle was over 50% destroyed. Restoration has been ongoing since the war and it is now listed as one of Unesco’s World Heritage Sites. The queue to go inside was even more chaotic than going to Wimbledon so we gave that a miss and spent the afternoon walking around the grounds.
Torun
A 2 hour train ride took us to Torun, a city on the Vistula River. During World War 2 Torun was one of few cities in the country where no damage was sustained which allowed the Old Town to be fully preserved with its iconic central marketplace. Believed to be one of the most beautiful cities in Europe, Toruń is renowned for the Museum of Gingerbread whose baking tradition dates back nearly a millenium, and its large Cathedral. In 1997 the medieval part of the city was designated a Unesco World Heritage site. We had an apartment in the middle of the Old Town which was great for walking to all the recommended sites but was also party central, with our apartment being 2 floors above a bar that didn’t close until 2.00am. There was a lot to see and we managed it all even though we slept late.
Czestochowa – pronounced chen-stow-hoe-vah
Oh yes this language is difficult. The best we’ve managed is Thankyou very much – Dziękuję Ci bardzo – pronounced Jen-ku-ya bard-zo – and Good Morning – Dzień dobry – pronounced Jen dobray – Not even sure they understand us!
This time a 4 hour train ride south to a city known for the famous Pauline Monastery of Jasna Gora which is the home of the Black Madonna painting. Every year, millions of pilgrims from all over the world come to Częstochowa to see it. And yes you got it, we arrived on the public holiday of Assumption Day and also Armed Forces Day – nothing open! But what fabulous accommodation, in the city, not above a bar, and spotlessly clean with everything working – a rarity in Europe!
At first glance the Monastery and religious places throughout the city seem to be the only reason to visit but on walking outside the main tourist areas its a beautiful city with friendly people and an easy relaxed lifestyle. We found some local markets and loved buying biscuits by the kg so bought one of 6 different flavours. Another great way to taste the local food. It was here we found a cafe that has a cheap smorgasbord where you can fill your plate and pay 3.69 Polish zloty per 100 grams and after 6pm there is a 20 % discount and after 6.30 a 50 % discount.
Next Stop: Krakow!